Getting high on Hai Peng

CHUKAI is a small town in Kemaman with seafood restaurants and the
highly-recommended Kedai Kopi Hai Peng which is famed for its coffee
creations.
AFTER a few hours of driving at a leisurely pace along the highway from
Kuala Lumpur, we spotted the signpost for Chukai. This little town is in
the Kemaman district of Terengganu.
I made a U-turn along the main road and curved into Chukai town. I
remembered the words of a colleague: "Don't forget to wind down your car
window and smell the coffee aroma coming from the Hai Peng Coffeeshop" or
"Kedai Kopi Hai Peng".
His remark was a bit of an exaggeration, of course. I did not detect
any such aroma; rather, I vaguely recalled the dust from the dry roads
and the exhaust fumes from cars and lorries.
It is worth noting that the first Customs department on the East Coast
was first set up in Chukai, which in Malay means "tax". It is an old town
with little to offer except for seafood. Naturally, there are several
seafood restaurants strategically located to entice visitors passing
through.
As I drove, I kept a sharp lookout for the famous Hai Peng Coffeeshop.
Just as I thought I had missed it, a three-storey building loomed into
sight with the name Hai Peng Coffeeshop proudly advertised on the front
of the building.
Located opposite a big car park at the end of Jalan Sulaimani, it was
an unmistakable landmark because the place was filled with customers who
even spilled out to the front and side of the shop. Rows of benches
revealed there were a lot of hungry people at high noon.
If I needed evidence of the popularity of the place, the large crowd
was solid proof. The car park was three-quarters full and there was nary
a table available for our party of four.
Being a nosey one, I took peeks at the occupied tables as I made my way
inside. Many customers had ordered iced coffee which, I believe, was
called "ice-blended Hai Peng coco lava". Anyway, it looked very inviting.
When we found a table, a waiter quickly produced the menu. I scanned
its contents and discovered that among the house specialties were hot
charcoal-toasted buns with kaya. For once, it was not slices of factory
produced bread. If it was, it would have spoilt the ambience. I had
expected better.
My son thought he saw some people eating nasi dagang bungkus, one of
Terengganu's favourite dishes. To our dismay, the waiter told us that
they were sold out on nasi dagang bungkus. It would have been a splendid
complement to our coffee, and it only cost RM1 a packet.
We decided to order the ice-blended Coco Lava. It sounded so exotic
that we couldn't resist it.
Other choices on the menu were Magnificent Fruit King, Coffee Breeze
and Pina Calada.
There were other home-made items like tuna sandwich, French toast,
Peanut Butter and Banana Sandwich and Apple Pie a la Mode.
Earlier, I had been briefed by my Terengganu friend that the owners of
Hai Peng actually grew their own coffee beans and made their own special
brand of coffee. Hai Peng coffee is not sold outside Chukai.
The coffee is said to leave no aftertaste. When I was told about its
marvellous attributes, I had my doubts. Frankly, I am not a coffee lover.
I am more of a Milo or cocoa person.
But the friendly urgings of a most loyal supporter of Hai Peng
compelled me to test the waters, so to speak.
The ice-blended Hai Peng coco lava soon arrived with the freshly
charcoal-toasted kaya buns. We sank our teeth into the buns and took a
huge gulp of the coffee. It was love at first bite. Words were inadequate
to describe the unique taste of the coffee.
At RM4.50 a glass (large), the coco lava is certainly a bargain. Hai
Peng would definitely give Starbucks, Dome and Coffee Bean a run for
their money.
It had a certain home-grown superiority that seemed to put other coffee
beans in their place. There was really no bitter aftertaste. The coffee
hit the right spot, as coffee lovers would put it. It gave my culinary
senses a gentle but pleasant jolt. Even if you are not a coffee drinker,
Hai Peng may just turn you into a new convert.
The charcoal-toasted buns had a unique flavour. Freshly toasted and
immediately eaten, the buns are guaranteed to send you into a tailspin
into gastronomical paradise.
The satisfied looks on the faces of customers are ample testimony of
the fine quality of items on the menu. I wasn't sure if it was the charm
of old town Chukai or the sea breeze that gently swept across the land
but I certainly felt very relaxed and yes, quite happy. My family shared
my feelings.
At the cashier's counter, there were stacks and stacks of Hai Peng
coffee powder on sale.
Coffee in sachets, white coffee and black coffee powder, all on offer
to meet the discerning tastes of different customers.
Obviously, the present owners have adopted modern marketing strategies
to put their unique selling proposition in the best light.
From their appearances, the Chinese proprietors appear to be either
from the second generation or even the third.
The prices of the Hai Peng coffee were actually very reasonable and its
exclusivity made it a great bargain. I was actually glad that Terengganu
had so much to offer, even if it was just Hai Peng coffee, for a start.
I learned later on that if passing motorists were feeling rather
famished, they could sample the numerous seafood restaurants scattered
all over town. The baked crabs were quite delightful, according to those
who had tried them.
I still have some Hai Peng coffee powder in my larder. I save that for
special occasions when I have my favourite TV shows on. Almost
inevitably, the first taste revives pleasant memories of that stopover at
Chukai. A cup of Hai Peng coffee is best taken with hot water, and of
course, cream and sugar according to taste.
I still don't drink coffee as a matter of habit but with Hai Peng, it
becomes an exception because the flavour never fails to bring a smile to
my face and rekindle visions of a dear remembered place on the other side
of the peninsula.